Sasona Appliance Information Page
Crud builds up at the bottom of these and they ought to be flushed yearly or so. Hook a garden hose up to the spigot (which looks like a garden spigot) at the bottom of the heater and let it drain into a bucket until it runs clear. The heater in the TV room has a spigot that might not turn off, you might just want to skip that one.
The faucets for the kitchen sink and mop-sink are identical. (note 2011-04-27: we replaced the mop sink, is that faucet still the same? Also note that the new mop sink has an issue with allowing hot water to backflow over the cold water line and flood the icemaker.] They appear to be the same as this -- http://elkayusa.com/pdf/LK4324FBC.pdf
Known problems:Leaks -- This is probably a worn diaphragm, part 25 in above diagram. To fix it you will need new diaphragms (make the KitchenManager or MaintenanceCoordinator order them), an allen wrench, and a long philips head screwdriver. Turn off the cut-off valves beneath the sink, the hot-water cut-off doesn't work, so you will have to turn off the water at the hot-water heater. Use the allen wrench to take off the faucet handle. Then unscrew the dome (#22) by hand. Remove the two carriage bolts that hold the cartridge (#24) to the base. The bolts are hidden, you have to thread the screwdriver vertically through the levers in the cartridge. The diaphragms are on the bottom of the cartridge.
Auto-Chlor serial no. 2571 model A5
- Although this sanitizer was on the property when we bought the house, this does not necessarily mean that the sanitizer belongs to the house. Calling the company which made the sanitizer will only invite questions we don't need answered. All service should be in-house whenever possible.
There are three pump mechanisms at the top of the machine, which suck cleaning fluids up the vinyl tubing like slushee up a straw. To service the pumps, remove the metal cover (only two screws remain out of four). The pumps look like three vertical smack syringes. A rotating arm moves the plunger up and down at an appropriate point in the cycle. Fluid is drawn in through the one-way diaphram valve on the right, and out through a similar valve at the left. A lock-nut and washer at the top of the syringe plunger adjusts the quantity of fluid that pumps through.
Currently the middle pump works at the beginning of the cycle and pumps detergent into the wash, the rightmost pump bleach at the end of the cycle. The leftmost pump has a dried o-ring on the syringe plunger that no-longer makes a seal. It also has a broken in-valve cover that could possibly be repaired with glue or something.
According to the service record that can be found on the inside of the cover-plate, the o-rings on the plungers should be greased frequently.
This washer was purchased new 3/31/2011. It has a 5-year extended warranty under the name Alex Gustafson until 3/31/2016.
A scan of the receipt with some service information is here: Clothes Washer Receipt.jpg
SasonaWaterFilters The water filter parts of interest may be:
- The big one was $180, and is probably this one for $79. It's a .5 micron filter.
- The smaller one is a pre-filter. The label on the mounting says 2 um. I found them in 5, 1, and 0.5 sizes for about $14/each. I think we need the 1 um. We paid $31.
Changing the small filter ($15) at the first sign of water pressure problems may extend the lift of the large filter ($80)